LASH BLOG
What Are the Best Eyelash Extension Styles for Different Eye Shapes?
As an eyelash artist, it’s crucial to understand the differences among the many available eyelash extension options. Depending on your client’s facial features, some eyelash extension styles are more flattering than others.
This knowledge can initially seem daunting, so we created this deep dive into classic lash extension styles to help you make the most out of your lash business.
Lash Extension Style Names
Your goal as a lash artist is to use a lash style to achieve balance and symmetry that accentuates your client’s best features. Lash extension styles vary due to length, volume, curl, and thickness. How you place them goes a long way toward making your client feel confident and beautiful.
From classic to dramatic, these eyelash extension styles are some of the most popular options.
When you are just starting out as a lash artist the Natural style is the best to follow, going with C Curl as the most common curl in the industry. Use lengths that are only 2-3mm longer than their natural lash.
Natural Eye
This style follows the client’s natural lash silhouette, with extension lengths that remain reasonably consistent across the eyelid. A natural set of lashes uses varied lengths to mimic lashes at various stages in the growth cycle, with fewer lashes on the inner and outer corners of the eye.
Open-Eye
An open-eye extension gets its name because it accentuates the center of the eye by adding both volume and length toward the center. Tapering the lashes on either side of the midline creates a symmetrical, dramatic look that can make the eyes appear larger and more lifted.
Traditionally, the open-eye style uses lashes between 7 and 8 mm in length on either corner of the eye, jumping to 11 or 12 mm at the center. This style has the longest lashes in the center and tapering to shorter lashes on the outer and inner corners of the eye.
Doll Eye
Some lash artists refer to this eyelash extension style as a mix of natural and open-eye styles. The doll eye style concentrates its longest extensions in the middle of the eyelid but gives a more natural look when compared to the voluminous open-eye style.
The length of the doll eye’s longest segment varies, and you can use long or medium-length extensions as you map out the lashline to suit your client’s eye shape and preferences.
For a more subdued look, you can create a doll eye look with shorter lengths or mixed-length lashes. This style is common with the Spike style as well.
Cat Eye
Like the popular eyeliner style, the cat eye extension adds allure and drama.
Cat eyelashes continuously increase the lash length as you move from the inner to the outer corner of the eye. The shortest length is applied at the inner corner as you work outward, increasing to 50% longer extension lengths as you reach the outer corner of the eye.
Because the outer lashes tend to be weaker and shorter, keeping your client’s eyelash integrity in mind is important. You can avoid the appearance of drooping or sagging eyes by decreasing the length, dropping down to 8 mm or 9 mm, for the last 5–10 lashes.
The popular kitten eye borrows from the cat eye’s principles but with a more subtle application: The disparity in length is closer to 25% from the inner to the outer corner.
Spike Style
Spike styles are growing in popularity and involve dramatic differences in length across the lash line. The spike look varies with longer and shorter lash extensions across the whole set, using the longer “spikes” to add strategic length.
For spike styles, the longest extensions are placed across the lash line and then infilled with shorter lengths. Some artists graduate the spikes by adding a shorter length on either side of the spike to soften the look.
Eye Shape Basics
The client’s eye shape significantly impacts which option will flatter their face. As a lash artist, you’re the expert on offering specific guidance on styles that help clients achieve their desired look.
While there are only a few primary eye shapes, several subcategories exist where minor differences like size, angle, closeness, and eyelid attributes can help you make more precise recommendations.
When in doubt, choose the most pronounced category or subcategory or go with the natural eye style.
Almond
As its name implies, almond eyes are shaped like almonds. The eye length is greater than its height and has a slight upward flick to the outer corner.
Most lash extension styles try to achieve this eye shape with their placement. Fortunately for almond-eyed clients, most eyelash styles look appealing with this shape.
We recommend:
- Cat or kitten eye
- Open-eye
- Doll eye
- Spike style
- Natural eye
Round
Round eyes are characterized by an eye height that’s the same or very close to its length. Depending on what clients want to accentuate, several styles of eyelash extensions make round eyes even more attractive. Styles creating balance in the shape and structure of the eye are better suited for this shape.
We recommend:
- Natural eye
- Cat or kitten eye
- Spike style
- Doll eye
Close-Set Eyes
This eye type falls under the eye spacing category rather than an overall eye shape. The goal for these clients is to draw attention to the outer corners of the eyes to create additional length.
Measure the length of your client’s eyes and the space between the bridge of their nose. If the gap is less than one eye length, any style that emphasizes or creates a wing on the outside edges of the eye works well.
We recommend:
- Cat or kitten eye
- Natural eye
- Spike style
Deep-Set Eyes
This classification refers to eye position rather than shape. Deep-set eyes simply sit deeper into the eye socket. Eyelash extensions are perfect for clients with this feature, as they complement their eye depth.
To help achieve this, ideal lash styles should create the illusion of the eyes being further out and simulate an almond shape when applied.
We recommend:
- Doll eye
- Open-eye
- Natural eye
- Spike style
Downturned Eyes
Downturned eyes are classified by eye angle, where the eye’s outer corner sits below the eye’s inner corner. The aim for these clients should be to create volume and length on the upper outer corner of the eye to help lift it.
We recommend:
- Natural eye
- Doll eye
- Spike style
Monolid/Single-Lid Eye
Single-lid eyes have no visible crease, and lash extensions can create the appearance of a more open and larger eye shape. Those with monolid eyes often have straighter lashes, so a set with extra curl can add drama and width.
Lash extensions adding additional length to the outer corner flatter this eye style and accentuate the elongated shape. The key with Monolids is the type of curl you will be using. L Curl is the best to make sure the lashes will be seen and also open the eye.
We recommend:
- Doll eye
- Cat or kitten eye
- Spike style
- Natural eye
Classic Lash Extension Styles at Minkys
Every eyelash extension client has a unique and beautiful eye shape that requires distinct lash looks. No matter the lash style you select with your client, you can find what you’re looking for in our top-rated Eyelash Extensions and Trays selection!
For additional education, learn how to take your career to the next level with Minkys’ professional lash artist training that features online class modules, hands-on training, and professional mentorship to sharpen your skills.
